There was a blizzard upstate this weekend. Having received advance warning that we would soon be snowed-in, Lisa and I picked up two bottles of red wine and a bottle of scotch, along with the ingredients for some of our favorite winter comfort foods - braised short ribs for me, macaroni and cheese for her. It was going to be a cozy weekend.

I've previously mentioned the spartan conditions in Lisa's kitchen. To make mac-n-cheese, we had to get her a cheese grater and a wire whisk. She's slowly building up a decent array of kitchenware she'll never use.

Knowing what I know about her stove, I probably should have thought twice before getting the all-stainless whisk. At one point I was whisking the bechamel for the mac-n-cheese, and reached to turn down the burner. Apparently the stainless steel whisk in my right hand, scraping against the bottom of a metal pot on the front heating coil, formed a complete circuit with the metal temperature knob in my left hand. Every muscle in my left arm convulsed like a jackhammer gone berserk, in time with the 60 Hz alternating current running through the electric range; the whisk was shaken violently from my grip and fell clattering to the floor. I'd never been electrocuted before this weekend, and having now had the experience I don't recommend it. I'm just grateful there was probably only enough current running through that stove to run a cheap clock radio. From now on Lisa gets only rubberized-grip kitchen utensils, and I use a dishcloth to adjust the heat on her stove.

After this near-death experience, a tall glass of Laphroaig settled my nerves enough to allow me to complete the meal. For the short ribs, I used the same loaf-pan-covered-with-aluminum-foil method I used to make the first meal I ever cooked for Lisa. I braised them in the remnants of the more disappointing of the red wines we'd bought the day before. As for the mac-n-cheese, I made enough to feed Lisa for the rest of the week. She may need it: she's on her way up to Albany today, and they've just gotten about a foot of snow.

Recipe: Macaroni and Cheese

Ingredients:

• 2 lbs. dry macaroni (elbows or shells)
  
• 1 qt. whole milk
  
• 6 tbsp. unsalted butter
  
• 4 tbsp. all-purpose flour
  
• 1/4 lb. gruyère cheese, grated
  
• 1/3 lb. aged cheddar cheese, grated
  
• 1/4 lb. parmesan cheese, grated
  
• 1/4 tsp. ground white pepper
  
• Pinch nutmeg
  

First, make a bechamel. In a heavy-bottomed saucepan, whisk together the flour and 4 tbsp. of the butter to form a roux. Stir constantly over medium-low heat for 4-5 minutes, but do not let the roux brown. Add 1/2 qt. of the milk and whisk thoroughly to remove lumps; raise heat to medium-high. As the sauce approaches the boil, add more cold milk. Repeat until all the milk has been added. Keep whisking until the sauce comes to a boil, then remove from heat. Stir in pepper and nutmeg, gruyère and cheddar.

Meanwhile, bring a pot of salted water to a boil and add the macaroni. Boil for 7-8 minutes, or until almost tender. Drain, and toss with half the bechamel. Pour into a large gratin dish or casserole, and pour remaining bechamel on top. Sprinkle with Parmesan and dot with remaining 2 tbsp. of butter. Place under a broiler for 3-5 minutes or until the top begins to brown. Remove and serve.

Makes 10-12 servings

Recipe: Short Ribs braised in Red Wine

Ingredients:

• 4-6 beef short ribs

• 1/2 bottle red wine

• 2 medium carrots
  
• 1 medium parsnip
  
• 1 small turnip
  
• 3 small celery stalks (from the heart, with greens if possible)
  
• 1 medium onion and/or white portion of one medium leek
  
• 2-3 medium cloves garlic

• 1 bay leaf
  
• 1 bunch parsley
  
• 1 sprig fresh thyme (or 1/4 tsp. dried)
  
• 4-6 black peppercorns
  
• 2-3 whole cloves

• 1/4 cup all-purpose flour
  
• 1/2 tsp. salt
  
• 1/4 tsp. ground black pepper
  
• 3 tbsp. clarified butter, or 2 tbsp. whole butter with 2 tbsp olive oil
  

Wash, peel, and coarsely chop the vegetables.

Sift together the flour, salt, and pepper, and dredge the short ribs. Place a pot just large enough to hold all the short ribs in one layer over high heat. Add the clarified butter, and when almost smoking add the short ribs meat-side down. Sear to a dark brown, then turn over. When dark brown on both sides, remove to a plate and hold. In the same pan, saute the vegetables, adding additional butter if necessary. Brown the vegetables slightly, then remove the pan from the heat. Layer the short ribs over the vegetables, add the herbs and spices, and pour in the red wine. Cover and place in a 300-degree oven for 3-4 hours.

Remove the short ribs from the braising liquid and place in a heavy-duty tupperware container. Strain the braising liquid and vegetables through a fine-mesh strainer over the short ribs (do not press the vegetables through), cover, and refrigerate overnight. The next day, remove the fat that has separated to the surface, reheat the short ribs slowly in the liquid (or shred the meat and reheat in the liquid), then remove the meat and reduce the braising liquid to 1/4 its original volume. Serve with mashed potatoes and steamed green vegetables (or, if you're in the mood, with mac-n-cheese).

Makes 2 servings