Of course, there's more in the butcher stalls of the Mercato Centrale than just severed heads. In fact, most of the flying creatures in the market still have their heads attached. This means the ducks still have their tongues, and the cocks their combs, either one of which could form the foundation for a classic recipe few Americans will ever hear of, let alone taste.

There are also mounds of un-decapitated fish and scampi here. Scampi, not to be confused with a pile of rubbery, garlicky shrimp in a pool of bubbling margarine at the Olive Garden, is the plural of scampo, the Italian word for a certain type of mediterranean shellfish that is something between a shrimp and a langoustine. I can't really find an anaolgy for a head on the baby squid and octopus you'll find here, but I'm sure if there were one, the fishmongers would make a point of leaving it on.

Lest you think the Mercato Centrale is all about gross-out animal parts, it also has magnificent produce stands, salumerie, cheese cases, winesellers, and dried fruit and nut sellers. Some of these items are local, some regional, some come from elsewhere in Italy. Among the most impressive displays: these bouquets of purple artichokes, the crowning jewel of the produce stand.