After my first year of law school, I took what I thought was going to be a wicked cool sumer job. I was going to work at the Office of the District Attorney, New York County -- that's right, my own personal episode of Law and Order.

Turns out what I did most of the summer was look over transcripts of wiretaps on suspected narcotics traffickers. Very boring. And I became a little suspicious when the Office of the Special Narcotics Prosecutor informed me that I would be receiving my weekly stipend in cash. Chain of custody, anyone?

But in any event, the summer gave me ample opportunity to scour Chinatown for the best example of one of my favorite dim sum specialties: the roast pork bun.

The roast pork bun is a ball of dough encasing chopped cantonese roast pork, which is often heavily slathered in that delectable smoky-salty-sweet sauce you find on all types of animal flesh in Cantonese shops. The dough can be steamed or baked, but for a handy satisfying lunch I generally opt for the baked variety (steamed buns are nice for a weekend dim sum brunch). I've eaten roast pork buns from every restaurant and bakery from Baxter to the Bowery, and my favorite - by far - is the golden treat served up at the May May bakery on Pell Street, just East of Mott.

May May stuffs its slightly sweet dough with generous portions of heavily seasoned and sauced pork that has actually been roasted in the Cantonese style -- many pork buns use pork that has been pan-fried or steamed and seasoned with scallions or other such nonsense. They are glazed with just enough egg wash to make them hypnotizingly shiny. And, like most pork buns in Chinatown, they are amazingly affordable: just over 50 cents apiece. The only problem is that May May knows it has the goods, and won't let you get out their door that easily. You can only buy their baked roast pork buns in boxes of 9 for $4.75. And it is easier than you might think to tear through the entire box in an afternoon.

Those opting for a healthier option can try May May's sticky rice packets: hunks of roast pork, vegetables, or both surrounded in delicious sticky rice, wrapped in leaves, and steamed. Prices range from $1.00 to $2.00, and just one will make for a filling lunch on the go.