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March 02, 2005

Ahead of the Curve

It figures. I do a post about delivery food in Manhattan a week ago, and today the entire New York Times Dining Section is about... well, I'll give you three guesses.

I wouldn't have thought that the Times dining desk reads Frost Street, but now I'm not so sure. Personally, I think the Times is not approaching the phenomenon of delivery from much of a critical distance. Half the restaurant meals in the New York area are made for takeout. Delivery boys are praying for rain to buoy their three-dollar-an-hour wages. Why am I the only one who has a problem with all this?

May 27, 2004

Keep Your Eyes on the Pies

The Associated Press reports that the Italian government is doing for pizza what the German government did for beer ages ago: regulating its contents and production. The regulations include restrictions on the diameter and thickness of a pizza, the types of flour and yeast that are used, and the permissible baking methods (a wood burning oven that reaches 485 degrees Celsius). At least the Italians are being more helpful with Pizza Napoletana than the French are with Cassoulet.

If you understand enough Italian and can figure out how to navigate the site, you can read the official rules in the Gazzetta Ufficiale of Italy. I have found what I believe to be the proposed text of the regulations here (whether this is the text that was adopted, I have no idea). And just in case AP decides to make you pay for this story after it gets archived, you can also get it from CNN.

As always, you can read more about good old New York style pizza on Slice.

April 28, 2004

Breaking the Fourth Wall

In case you couldn't tell from my last post, I've been working pretty hard lately. I spent 30 of the past 36 hours in the office, and what I've eaten there isn't worth inconveniencing the electrons necessary to describe it to you.

Which is not the worst situation imaginable, because it gives me an opportunity to remind myself and my readers that when I'm not eating, I'm still a lawyer. And today the Supreme Court heard among the most important arguments it's heard in maybe 50 years. You can get the Readers' Digest version from Dahlia Litwick at Slate (she's one of the better non-academic legal commentators around, by my lights). For a more complete picture of the cases, you can get the briefs and lower court decisions from Findlaw (there are two cases involved, Rumsfeld v. Padilla and Hamdi v. Rumsfeld).

The reason these cases are important is because of the precedent being relied on in the arguments, which comes from World War II. The key case, Ex Parte Quirin, involved a bunch of Nazi spies who were tried before a military tribunal without the protections afforded to criminal defendants under the Constitution. The catch is, one of these Nazis -- a man named Haupt -- claimed to be a naturalized American citizen. This was in 1942. The Nazis were starting to get pretty good at killing Americans on the battlefields of Europe, and FDR and J. Edgar Hoover were going to make an example of these men. And the Supreme Court, in a moment of historic cowardice, caved to the Executive's will, saying:

Citizenship in the United States of an enemy belligerent does not relieve him from the consequences of a belligerency which is unlawful because in violation of the law of war. Citizens who associate themselves with the military arm of the enemy government, and with its aid, guidance and direction enter this country bent on hostile acts are enemy belligerents within the meaning of the Hague Convention and the law of war.... We conclude that the Fifth and Sixth Amendments did not restrict whatever authority was conferred by the Constitution to try offenses against the law of war by military commission, and that petitioners, charged with such an offense not required to be tried by jury at common law, were lawfully placed on trial by the Commission without a jury.

Ex Parte Quirin, 317 U.S. 1, 37-38, 45 (1942) (internal citation omitted). (You can read more about the real-life travesty of Quirin here. In fact, the quote above was published months after Haupt and his co-petitioners were already dead.) So the man known to history as Petitioner Haupt, the American Nazi, the John Walker Lindh of the Third Reich, never saw an American courtroom. A military tribunal convened under orders of the President tried and convicted him, and he went to the electric chair. And that, as they say, was that.

Until today. Padilla and Hamdi, unlike Haupt, haven't had a military tribunal. Padilla at least hasn't aligned himself with any government against whom the United States has declared war. They have barely had access to counsel. They've been held without bail, without charges, with hardly any contact with the outside world, for about two years apiece. The only basis for their imprisonment is that the President has decided they're out to hurt Americans. Frankly, the President is probably right. But he's never had to prove it to anybody, not even a military tribunal. And the question in these cases is whether he should even have to bother.

Today, in America, even a person who the whole world agrees should be locked up gets a chance to stand up and try to convince the world it's wrong. Depending on how the Supreme Court rules on the cases it heard today, that may not be true much longer. Fifty years from now, the "war on terror" -- like the war on fascism -- will be a chapter in a history book, but there will be some new menace threatening whatever way of life we've settled into by then. Maybe you'll have voted for the President who's in office then, and maybe not. But a court is going to be citing the opinions the Supreme Court writes in these two cases to decide whether the President can unilaterally, indefinitely imprison the grandchild of somebody who is alive today. The prisoner (or, in the genteel world of appellate argument, the "detainee") will likely be a genuinely dangerous individual who deserves incarceration. But maybe he (or she) will just be someone who strongly disagrees with the President's policies -- say, foreign policies in a time of war -- and has spoken out against them.

These cases aren't about terrorists. They aren't about dirty bombs or sleeper cells or enemy combatants. They're about law, plain and simple. Either there is law or there isn't. If the President can lock you up because he thinks it's a good idea, there just isn't any law. Give Padilla and Hamdi their day in court, let them try to persuade us they deserve their freedom, then prove them wrong. They'll most likely end up in stir anyway. But it will be because the person trying to put them there proved to a disinterested party that that's where they belong.

I went to law school with some astonishingly smart and genuinely good people, a few of whom are who are now clerking for the Justices that will be deciding these cases. Most if not all of them are married or engaged. I hope that tonight, they're thinking of the grandchildren they'll have someday.

April 24, 2004

Must-Read

Everyone must read this op-ed piece in today's New York Times. And do exactly what it says.

April 08, 2004

Say It Ain't So

The New York Times is reporting that most of the world's sushi -- even in Japan and Manhattan and L.A. -- is made from previously frozen fish. So next time a friend of yours says they know a sushi place with "the freshest" fish, you just walk right in and ask if their fish has ever been frozen. If the answer is no, well, they've violated FDA regulations, and you can report them to the local board of health, embarrasing your friend in the process.

Stupid FDA with its stupid rules. They won't let us eat fresh raw fish, they won't let us eat young raw-milk cheeses, they won't let us drink real Absinthe. I swear one of these days I'm just going to move to a farm and eat only what I've made myself. Stock a pond with fish, raise hogs and sheep and chickens and maybe a cow or two, plant my own vegetables and fruit trees, build a smoke house and a pot still. And I'll open up a big farmstand where you can come and get all the things the FDA doesn't want you to have. Let the feds try to stop me; I'll go Waco on their ass. Someone has to draw a line somewhere.

April 01, 2004

Southern Hospitality

The Food Section today picked up on a story out of Dixie: Yesterday the Atlanta-Journal Constitution reported that a recipe in this month's issue of Southern Living Magazine could cause serious bodily injury and property damage.

The recipe calls for boiling a pot full of shortening and water for five minutes. Of course, if you're educated enough to read a magazine, you probably know that oil and water don't mix. Follow Southern Living's instructions, and the shortening will melt and sit in a layer above the water until the latter reaches a forceful boil, at which point it will explode out of the pot, spraying scalding liquids all over your kitchen.

Now Newsday reports that the magazine is recalling every copy of its April issue: a quarter of a million all told. A stern warning, in all capital letters, is on the Southern Living website. You're all now witness to a case study in the juxtaposition of an alert free press with a ravenous personal injury bar.

Personally, I don't see why these muckrakers couldn't just let natural selection take its course.

March 30, 2004

Sticks and Stones

A lot of people have been calling out Amanda Hesser lately. Last week's review of Spice Market has foodies and bloggers up in arms. Eurotrash wrote the most scathing rant to date, verging on the personal in her typical holier-than-thou style. Gawker couldn't help but keep the ball rolling. Lockhart Steele weighed in with a somewhat more subtle parody. E-Gullet head honcho Fat Guy tersely trashed the Spice Market review, and other e-Gulleters chimed in accusing Hesser of everything from logrolling for her buddy Jean-Georges Vongerichten to insulting the Spice Market kitchen staff to compromising the credibility of both herself and the Times. Felix of felixsalmon.com tried to defend Hesser, but somehow couldn't help descending into backhanded criticism.

It's entirely likely that another review will come out tonight and that the Hesser-bashing will resume in earnest. And before that happens I figured I'm entitled to add my two cents for anybody who'd bother to take notice. I say: Leave Amanda Hesser alone.

Some have suggested that Hesser is a novelist trying to walk the walk of a critic, and stumbling at just about every step. Obviously there is little agreement on what food writing in general -- and the Times restaurant reviews in particular -- should look like. Ultimately, though, there's enough information out there that Hesser's reviews are not going to be the final word on a new restaurant. So if she wants to set a mood with flowery prose at the expense of providing the nitty-gritty information that many foodies are looking for, I think that's a choice she and her editors are entitled to make. Hesser's reviews smack of travel journalism, which is ideal for people who will probably never set foot in Spice Market or any of the other restaurants the she reviews (presumably the vast majority of the Times' readership falls into this category). The genre has a value in its own right, whether or not it's the most suitable format for a restaurant review.

Most (but, to be fair, not all) of what I've read about Amanda Hesser this past week is transparently rooted in either jealousy of her position at the Times or resentment of the power that comes with that position. I think it's rather petty. Many of Hesser's critics may believe themselves to be superior writers, or to have deeper knowledge of food and the restaurant scene, and they may very well be right. But savaging her reviews on that basis, parsing them in a search for the slightest misstep, comes off as sour grapes. Writing, like dining, is a matter of taste. Disagree if you will, but let's be civil about it.

February 27, 2004

All Creatures Great and Small

Those of you who have been here a while will recall my unrepentant ruminations on the cruelty of meat eating. From foie gras to feet, there are certain triggers that confront us with the reality that the perpetuation of our lives inevitably involves the extinguishment of others.

Carnivores with a conscience and a streak of masochism can read all about the trail of suffering that ends on their dinner plate in a recent article on Slate. If the cannibal pigs don't get to you, the suffocating baby chickens probably will.

I think I'll skip the oatmeal for breakfast and have some bacon and eggs.

February 23, 2004

Schadenfreude

The Times reports that a fire has shut down Thomas Keller's Per Se, the flagship restaurant of the new Columbus Circle shopping mall, for at least two weeks. You may remember my bitterness and angst as I tried to get a reservation for an early date when the phone lines at Per Se first opened.

So to all those whose inside connections or auto-redial buttons or personal assistants got them a reservation in the first two weeks while all I got was a busy signal, I have only one word for you:

HA!

January 21, 2004

Anticipation

I pass by the new Time Warner Center at Columbus Circle every day on my way to work. Its two towers, nonexistent a year ago, now dramatically punctuate the northward view from my firm's offices. The construction scaffolding came down a week ago, but the grand opening is still two weeks away.

I've been waiting for this moment ever since I heard of the haute cuisine food court that would be setting up shop inside. Five world-class chefs are opening top-flight restaurants in the new building, the most hotly anticipated of which is Thomas Keller's East Coast version of his famed French Laundry: Per Se. I've been watching the per se website for weeks now in hopes of being among the first to spot the public reservations desk number (bigwigs, assuredly, have already made reservations via a private line). The release date for this number has been pushed back from January 15 to February 1, hinting at a soft opening in a space that is undoubtedly still rough around the edges. But I've been checking the website every day to make sure I don't miss the boat.

Now, as she so often does, Florence Fabricant has scooped the foodie world, dashing my hopes of an inside track. Reservations at Per Se will be accepted starting February 2, at (212) 823-9335.

I'm sorry, did I say February 2? I meant February 3.

January 16, 2004

Chutzpah

See, this is what I'm talking about. We coastals like to look down on the flyover states, but hell, they've got a lot of heart. After all my talk of variant Creutzfeldt-Jakob disease, here are a bunch of corn-fed red-blooded Americans chowing down on the food of their immigrant ancestors: Deep-fried cow brain sandwiches. Somebody book me a flight to Indiana.

December 09, 2003

It's All About the Benjamins

The world of twenty-something lawyers in New York is abuzz with murmurings of discontent over what is perceived to be a stingy year-end bonus for associates at the city's largest law firms.

Meanwhile, I've been spending just about every waking hour in the office working on a lawsuit we filed today. Last night I left early - around 11:30 - so I could come in "refreshed" at 7:00 this morning. By the time I left last night, the sushi I had ordered for dinner had been sitting out for almost three hours. But I hadn't eaten in over ten hours, so what could I do? So far I can't report any ill effects, but we'll see.

I don't think I'm underpaid, but I worry that my job may be poisoning me.